[Julian Klepacki]

good job paul.
what amp & BT module are you using?
that interior looks fantastic
your car must be coming on leaps and bounds now?

[Julian Klepacki]

i haven’t managed to find and images showing the detail i want to see. areas of interest are always obscured.

Overall the carpet fits OK. but i do have some issues that need to be addressed.

main issue is that the sill carpets, when aligned with the ‘curve’ on the sill-trim and the ‘slope’ of the centre floor section. They fall short at the fronts. NS is the worst.

but, it may be OK-ish? I think the floor carpet should sit on top of the ECU that bolts to the floor. If so, it’ll fit covering those gaps? The cage that the ECU sits in looks to have a cover or somehting, with four captive-nuts ftted on the frame that something bolted too.

Also the bit that fits on the corner around the tank isn’t ideal.

ive opened up the trim, so the edging fits inside and then will be clamped back down/tight after final fitting. Again, if you align the curve on the carpet with the curve of the trim. it dictates where the carpet fits. align curves, carpet falls short at front of sill. move carpet forward to correct gaps at front. it looks odd with misalignment of curve on carpet & trim.

all carpet sets i’ve seen , including coverdale, simply have a slit, edged for this area. but its more complicated than that. there is a lip on that upper edge of the panels. the carpet slot idealy needs to be an upside-down ‘L’?

Anyway, i have time having to sort out the sills/bottom of C/B posts. during that i’ll consider my options. I’m leaning to get some more flint grey carpet from coverdale, enough for the boot and use offcuts to extend the sill carpets and fill tha minor gaps?

[Julian Klepacki]

Hello from Groede in that Holland, unfortunately nowhere near any cloggy DS parts supliers, so no going home with parts :(. But on our way to the tunnel from up north we took a slight detour to St Albans and looked at Terry’s car.

I think its a very honest car, as a no frills, proven daily user.
We took it out round the block, ran fine, souned nice, excellent brakes, clutch gears all of it. Terry hammered it, it was happy.

it looked good, great in fact in all the important places; bottom of body-posts, wing-gutters, bottom of doors, wings etc. Yes, it is showing it’s age in places, but in a good way and nothing that cant be reversed if desired. All in all looked a very good honest turn-key car for sensible money?

i didn’t get right underneath, it was raining and i wasn’t dressed for rolling around on the floor. But the photos on CC show aspects of it.

it is advertised as a super, but it is only a 4-speed? I thought supers were 5? vin plate on bulkhead identifies it as an ID20. Maybe that is important to some, it wasn’t to me.

if i didn’t have the projects i have on the go and space for it without having to spill car(s) onto the road. I would have bought it in a heart beat to use as is and enjoy.

[Julian Klepacki]

WOW! those barn finds look great. in particular the 23 and the early ID. I saw a slough built early car on ebay a few weeks back that looked an honest car for reasonable money.

That SA 5 speed looks good. A DS is such a small market i’m sure it could be bought for significantly less. Cash is king. Seriously worth a close inspection if in the market for a good, honest DS?

[Julian Klepacki]

if you do look at that st albans car, report back be good to get the lowdown. I’m thinking that car would be best left ‘as is’ and enjoy it for as long as condition allows?

It’d soon avalance; once the interior is tidied up nice, with new instruments, stalks, dash-paint etc. Then what? Roof linings, seating, door cards and it goes on. Then it has to be painted and whatever underneath throws up. You have a full resto/reno on your hands before you know whats what. You’ve spent good money and it’s taking years. Too many.

i think Peter’s final comments are on the money.

[Julian Klepacki]

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the links. I looked at C.Classics parts shop and didn’t see it, don’t think they stock it?

Carpet, yeah. I htink it’s just a balls up on the supplier/maker. It was a bloke recommended from here many years ago. I’ve been somewhat dissapointed in the whole lot to be honest. The actual finishing in a lot of areas, particular seating/door cards isn’t quite up to scrtatch for a pro in my book. It looks a little ameteur.

I could fit that NS sill carpet so it sits behind the centre section. But the centre-section has a raw edge, so that will be visible and look bad. I’d have to edge it, then its odd to the other side and it goes on.

I’m thinking of replacing it with a coverdale? They seem to have a good rep? I’ll try the other carpets and see how good/bad they fit before making a decision. If going coverdale i’ll talk to them first about their fitment. It might be the same?

I have some time. My understanding is I have sme minor works to sills before I can final-fit the sill carpets and follow on from that with the rest, due to the order of ‘over-lapping’ trim that requires fitting:
1. Apron covers.
2. Apron trim with those rubbers i need replace.
3. Upper sill covers
4. those long ‘J’ shaped trip that carpet tucks into.
5. Sill carpets and so on.

Oh, your car is looking stunning. It’s looks fantastic out of M&M paint shop.

[Julian Klepacki]

be interested in how you get on with this.
keep us posted on your endeavours.

[Julian Klepacki]

interior now covered with sound deadening bitumen or whatever it is & sound isolator closed cell foam.

i have been trial fitting the carpets which i bought some fifteen plus years ago and have been in storage until now. i’ve got an issue with the N/S sill carpet. i think it’s the wrong type for the car? it looks to be for one that doesn’t have the height-adjuster-rod-linkage running infront of the centre floor-section?

the O/S sill carpet is correct, having the shape cut for the adjusting-lever. it can be seen in the image above showing the foam sound-isolator.

Looks like I’ll have to rework it; trim it to follow the shape and re-apply binding.

Secondly, does anyone know if the rubber trim that fits around the steel trim that secures the upper sill-covers is available anywhere? Three out the four of mine are somewhat damaged.

Not the best picture, looks like one of those guess what it is close-ups?

[Julian Klepacki]

Unless it’s something you really want to do, restore a car, but are not naturally inclined or drawn towards working/renovating/restoring a car. i’d say try and find/buy a car that is at worst fundamentally solid, especially in all the expensive, difficult places. Fully functional and say scruffy, room for improvement you can put your own stamp on and get satisfaction from that. But always being able to use it?

At best get as much money as you are willing to spend and buy the best car from a reputable source. i conclude it’s better to borrow an additional 10k to boost available funds and get a good usable car now to use and enjoy as much as possible. Rather than buy a car that needs work for 10k and then put another 10k into it over years to get that good car. Use the ‘resto-money’ to pay the loan off instead and have it now, not years later. who knows whats round the corner?

A project car can quickly esculate, minor jobs end up a strip down and it spends more time off the road than on. i got my DS as road/resto project. it’d been off the road a while, but useable. I had it recommissioned, ran it as a daily driver for a few years. Then took it off the road to start on those doors etc. That was over fifteen years ago. Life, other projects, houses etc gets in the way. There were times I forgot I even had it, having spent years in a lockup. Out of sight out of mind.

That st albans car was up for 16k last july/august, May citroenian it was in for 15K stating no rust and never welded. Now that i see lots of pictures of it. I don’t think it’s a 15k car, no way. But at 10k or less it looks to have potential. It is scruffy inside and in the engine bay. if it looks scruffy in the photos it’ll look quite bad in the flesh. But that can be improved easy enough. Mostly just swapping scruffy stuff for nice condition stuff. It looks good underneath. If it’s not far away it worth a good look around. It looks to be an honest car?

Yes, a brace of D’s is the answer.

[Julian Klepacki]

Hi. I replaced the entire lowers on my doors, they were completely rotten and some other upper sections i cut from donor doors. I’m no expert, but I have done a lot of this lark over my years dickin’ about with old cars. In hindsight maybe better to have sourced rot free doors or significantly better ones requiring minor repairs.

same with my front wings, they were previously repaired and rotten. I restored them, but spent more on them all in than a pair of good used wings? Plus all the time working on them. But if you have the equipment and to an extent enjoy doing the work. It’s diffcult not to do it? Even with all the frustrations, disappointemnts and substandard results.

It goes without saying if you get someone to do the work for you and invariablly pay a lot of money. Make sure they are very very good. But that still doesn’t guarantee anyhting. I had a well known classic citroen garage local to me do some repairs. Substandard for ‘professionals’.

There was what looked like a good car for sale within the club; 71 D super LHD ~15k. I’d also seen it on ebay and it was still for sale in the last citroen mag? Unsure if it is still available? It appeared to have excellent credentials; club member, long time ownership, long trips etc. It had my interest for a while.

[Julian Klepacki]

Yeah, a photo here would speak volumes.

The red arrows indicate what was fouling.

started it up to check all was OK. At first i had no fuelpump priming noise. About to start looking if i disturbed a wire? Though i’d not been working anywhere that could have?

Then realised i had no ECU plugged in :/. Once plugged in all OK.

So thats me until spring DS-wise. Heading back to work early Nov, return early Jan.
I have some engine work to do over winter, but on another project.
I might investigate some bits & bobs, but mostly gather parts in prep.

[Julian Klepacki]

Regarding part #1 it can’t really be fitted incorrectly. it stays on the shaft #2 and flat-peice with slots isn’t flat, but angled, following the contour of base #6 it bolts to.

Anyway, it’s now sorted :).

I bought a cheap chinkwainese borescope to allow investigation without having to get too far under the car. I identified that the cable was still attached, the main worry and no bracketry appeared to be causing fouling. But needed a better view than what the scope gave.

I started working towards getting the car high enough, safely to get right under. Then thinking about it, as i have been constantly. I wasn’t sure, but the bow, #10, which on my car is a tube and not flat pressing. Was hanging down a little low? Though not improbably, seemed incorrect?

i concluded that when i replaced the assembly into the locator #4, the position of the pedal was too ‘vertical’. This would have placed the eye for the cable higher, slackening the cable. Still unsure about the lack of movement?

So before i started getting axle-stands out, raising suspensions etc, crawling around underneath. I thought, lets just try this: I free’d up the assembly by disconnecting #1. Pulling the assembly from the locator #4, allowing me to rotate the assembly, positioning the pedal a little further towards the floor.

Once relocated back into #4 with the new assembly position, all is good.

I think the lack of movement was caused by the pedal itself fouling on the base #6. Becasue it was initially placed too vertical, it allowed it to slide towards the bulhead just enough for metal to overlap and cause the problem. Should have taken a photo, simpler to see than explain. Car is put to bed now for the winter all covered up.

[Julian Klepacki]

just to add, i didn’t remove the pedal. after removing the two screws that hold #1 to the base plate #6. i could tip the pedal end up just enough to massage #6 out. It was afterwards when i was cleaning/painting the floor the assembly got moved about too much and messed it all up.

[Julian Klepacki]

How did i not see 2.142/3 dwg? It’s only a couple of slides on from my incorrectly identified dwg?

Anyway, mmmm. I think i have two issues. firstly the eye on the cable is likely detached. especially is there is nohting on the end to prevent doing; c-clip etc?

when i looked at my photo of that end, it looks like it just ends at the bush, not seeing the arm continue due to the dark/contrast of the image. I couldn’t feel it as i was at the end of my reach with the car sitting on the deck.

secondly, i wonder if on the pedal side, that flat-end of the straight bar #2 that locates in #10 has come adrift? But you say you can see it, located and secure? Somehting is definitely preventing the pedal moving forward.

Before disturbing it all to process the floor it was all 100% functional, A-O.K.

I hope i can sort it out easy enough; get it on stands, get under and fiddle it correct? But i envisage it’s going to be a complete pain in the arse. I hope i don’t have to do anything obscene like remove the effin’ engine/box to do it? There seems to be no room to work/access whatsoever at the sides between the box & bulkhead where all the crap is?

[Julian Klepacki]

Thanks for that Paul.
At least they pointed me to some parts manuals, which i downloaded and extracted the following.

that depicts my throttle setup, though not identical.
mine doesn’t appear ot have anything at the end of the ‘bow’. Just the pivot into the bulkhead.
The above seems to have the throttle-cable/linkage?
I think mine, like in those threads you linked it is at the junction/conneciton of the straight pedal-bar and bow.

Anyway, it seems it’ll all be apparent when i get under the car and eyeball it. Which i’ll have to do to sort it out.

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